[jchw]

At least with U.S. wiring we have 15 amps at 120 volts. For continuous power draw I know you'd want an 80% margin of safety, so let's say you have 1440 Watts of AC power you can safely draw continuously. Power supplies built on MOSFETs seem to peak at around 90% efficiency, but you could consider something like the Corsair AX1600i using gallium nitride transistors, which supposedly can handle up to 1600 watts at 94% efficiency.

Apparently we still have room, as long as you don't run anything else on the same circuit. :)

[atonse]

You can always have an electrician install a larger breaker for a particular circuit. I did that with my "server" area in my study, which was overkill cuz I barely pull 100w on it. But it cost nearly zero extra since he was doing a bunch of other things around the house anyway.

[viraptor]

> You can always have an electrician install ...

If you own the house, sure. Many people don't.

[jacquesm]

You need to increase the wire diameter as well if you go that route. Running larger breakers on 10A or 15A wiring is a recipe for bad stuff.

[mrweasel]

In older houses, made from brick and concrete, that can be tricky to do. The only reason I can have my computer on a separate circuit is because we could repurpose the old three phase wiring for a sauna we ripped out. If that had not been the case, getting the wires to the fuse board would have been tricky at best.

New homes are probably worse than old homes through. The wires a just chucked in the space been the outer and inner walls, there's basically no chance of replacing them of pulling new ones. Old houses at least frequently have piping in which the wires run.

[davrosthedalek]

Larger breaker and thicker wires!

[atonse]

I thought you only needed thicker wires for higher amps? Should go without saying, but I am not a certified electrician :-)

I only have a PhD from YouTube (Electroboom)

[jchw]

The voltage is always going to be the same because the voltage is determined by the transformers leading to your service panel. The breakers break when you hit a certain amperage for a certain amount of time, so by installing a bigger breaker, you allow more amperage.

If you actually had an electrician do it, I doubt they would've installed a breaker if they thought the wiring wasn't sufficient. Truth is that you can indeed get away with a 20A circuit on 14 AWG wire if the run is short enough, though 12 AWG is recommended. The reason for this is voltage drop; the thinner gauge wire has more resistance, which causes more heat and voltage drop across the wire over the length of it, which can cause a fire if it gets sufficiently hot. I'm not sure how much risk you would put yourself in if you were out-of-spec a bit, but I wouldn't chance it personally.

[bangaladore]

Could you not just run a 240 volt outlet on existing wiring built for 110v? Just send l1 and l2 on the existing hot/neutral?

[bri3d]

You can, 240V on normal 12/2 Romex is fine. The neutral needs to be "re-labeled" with tape at all junctions to signify that it's hot, and then this practice is (generally) even code compliant.

However! This strategy only works if the outlet was the only one on the circuit, and _that_ isn't particularly common.

[glitchc]

Without upgrsding the wiring to a thicker gauge? That's not code compliant and is likely to cause a fire.

[atonse]

Sorry just to specify, it was more like a 20 amp I think (I will verify), it wasn't like I was going way higher.

I don't remember whether he ran another wire though. It was 5 years ago. Maybe I should not be spreading this anecdote without complete info.

He was a legit electrician that I've worked with for years, specifically because he doesn't cut corners. So I'm sure he did The Right Thing™.

[glitchc]

If this is north america we're talking about, then 14 gauge is the standard for 120V 15A household circuits. By code, 20A requires 12 gauge. You'll notice the difference right away, it's noticeably harder to bend. Normally a house or condo will only have 15A wires running to circuits in the room. It's definitely not a standard upgrade, the 12 gauge wire costs a lot more per foot, no builder will do it unless the owner forks over extra dough.

Unless you performed the upgrade yourself or know for a fact that the wiring was upgraded to 12 gauge, it's very risky to just upgrade the breaker. That's how house fires start. It's worth it to check. If you know which breaker it is, you can see the gauge coming out. It's usually written on the wire.

[jchw]

I was actually under the impression that it is allowed depending on the length of the conductor, but it seems you are right. The NEC Table 15(B)(16) shows the maximum allowed ampacity of 14 AWG cables is 20 amperes, BUT... there is a footnote that states the following:

> * Unless otherwise specifically permitted elsewhere in this Code, the overcurrent protection for conductor types marked with an asterisk shall not exceed 15 amperes for No. 14 copper, 20 amperes for No. 12 copper, and 30 amperes for No. 10 copper, after any correction factors for ambient temperature and number of conductors have been applied.

I could've sworn there were actually some cases where it was allowed, but apparently not, or if there is, I'm not finding it. Seems like for 14 AWG cable the breaker can only be up to 15 amperes.

[jchw]

There is a chance he did not run new wires if he was able to ascertain that the wire gauge was sufficient to carry 20 amps over the length of the cable. This is a totally valid upgrade though it does obviously require you to be pretty sure you know the length of the entire circuit. If it was Southwire Romex, you can usually tell just by looking at the color of the sheathing on the cable (usually visible in the wallboxes.)

[cosmic_cheese]

Where things get hairy are old houses with wiring that’s somewhere between shaky and a housefire waiting to happen, which are numerous.

[jchw]

As an old house owner, I can attest to that for sure. In fairness though, I suspect most of the atrocities occur in wall and work boxes, as long as your house is new enough to at least have NM sheathed wiring instead of ancient weird stuff like knob and tube. That's still bad but it's a solvable problem.

I've definitely seen my share of scary things. I have a lighting circuit that is incomprehensibly wired and seems to kill LED bulbs randomly during a power outage; I have zero clue what is going on with that one. Also, often times opening up wall boxes I will see backstabs that were not properly inserted or wire nuts that are just covering hand-twisted wires and not actually threaded at all (and not even the right size in some cases...) Needless to say, I should really get an electrician in here, but at least with a thermal camera you can look for signs of serious problems.

[kube-system]

Yeah, but it ain't nothing that microwaves, space heaters, and hair dryers haven't already given a run for their money.

[jchw]

Hair dryers and microwaves only run for a few minutes, so even if you do have too much resistance this probably won't immediately reveal a problem. A space heater might, but most space heaters I've come across actually seem to draw not much over 1,000 watts.

And even then, even if you do run something 24/7 at max wattage, it's definitely not guaranteed to start a fire even if the wiring is bad. Like, as long as it's not egregiously bad, I'd expect that there's enough margin to cover up less severe issues in most cases. I'm guessing the most danger would come when it's particularly hot outside (especially since then you'll probably have a lot of heat exchangers running.)