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by monk_e_boy
1313 days ago
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I surf and kitesurf. I guess the hardest thing to describe about the sea is how violent it can be. Getting a wave on the head (a wave of decent size) is colossal. Every part of your body is attacked, board shorts ripped off, arms flung around, head whipped back, legs hit your chest or back. Big waves are crazy powerful. Then there's the speed, wizzing over choppy water on a board feels like driving over a very pot holed dirt road, the chops SLAM into the board over and over again. You lean on the rail to turn and the board may just drop away into a hole or get slammed up by chop. And if you fall, you don't penetrate the water, you just skim over it like a flat stone (or a rag doll in the mouth of a dog, shaking it from side to side) |
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And when you finally do emerge, what do you know, the next wave is already here for the next trip down.
And all of that is assuming there isn't sharp coral reefs at the bottom.