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by ur-whale 1314 days ago
When you wipe out, especially if you do it close to where the wave breaks, you're leaving out the part where you're deep underwater, being thrown around like a coffee bean in a grinder, not knowing which way is up and having the somewhat nagging problem of finding air again.

And when you finally do emerge, what do you know, the next wave is already here for the next trip down.

And all of that is assuming there isn't sharp coral reefs at the bottom.

1 comments

It's even more nerve wracking when you watch surfers wipe out on big waves where you need jetskis to get on the wave and then again to get out of the pounding zone of the later waves of the set. Sometimes the jetskis just can't get to them in time and you see the surfer getting put in an extreme wash cycle mode one time after the other until the ocean decides that they're done with them.