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by ur-whale
1314 days ago
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When you wipe out, especially if you do it close to where the wave breaks, you're leaving out the part where you're deep underwater, being thrown around like a coffee bean in a grinder, not knowing which way is up and having the somewhat nagging problem of finding air again. And when you finally do emerge, what do you know, the next wave is already here for the next trip down. And all of that is assuming there isn't sharp coral reefs at the bottom. |
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