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by harbie 3168 days ago
This was how I felt about lifting weights. I know about all of it's amazing health benefits, but you've got 3-5 minutes rest between sets, with most programs having you do at least 9 sets total. That's not even counting the time added on if someone else asks to work in sets with you. Plus the need for a spotter when benching.

Point is, I ended up getting into bouldering. If you want to send a bouldering problem, you have to spend a while actually planning out your movements, because if you waste time trying to figure out your next move in the middle of all but the easiest problems, you'll run out of energy before completing the problem. Like lifting, you need rest time between climbs, but you can spend that time planning out your next attempt. Only downside is that indoor bouldering walls tend to be crowded most of the time, and outdoor bouldering can require a bit of a drive depending on where you live.

Still, I find it a lot more stimulating than lifting; I actually look forward to bouldering, while lifting still felt like a chore even after 8 months of doing it.

edit: I should add that I've only been bouldering regularly for about 2 months, and mostly at an indoor gym.

8 comments

On the contrary, lifting weights has been one of the most fruitful additions to my life. I started around 5 years ago and it visibly changed my body in a year; something which I've wanted for a long time. Every time, its a thrill to be able to lift more weights, to complete the reps and know that I'm stronger than I was a month ago.

I'm guessing what bothers you the most is the idea of doing the same thing over and over again, which is a fair criticism. Generally I listen to a podcast. In the beginning, I used to go with a friend so it didn't become too boring.

> idea of doing the same thing over and over again

You can change your exercises every 2-3 months otherwise your muscle will hit a saturation point or start facing fatigue due to same type of work out

Unless you're competing and pushing for that last 5%, there's no need to rest 3-5 min. 1-1.5 min should be plenty except maybe the last set or 2 if you're really going for it.
Yes, you can even go as low as 20-30 seconds if your goal is not competitive powerlifting and more aesthetics, I wasted way too much time for inferior results before switching to short rest time
Alternate working either opposing or totally unconnected muscle groups and there's no reason to rest any in between sets, which has the added benefit of turning it into a pretty incredible cardio workout at the same time.
Not entirely true. Once you're at a reasonable strength level simply switching muscle groups will not provide adequate rest for your CNS to perform your sets optimally.
Like I said above short rest times are not for powerlifting purposes but works perfectly in higher rep ranges.

This http://borgefagerli.com/myo-reps-in-english/ works very well for me, great results and very short workouts.

I usually have a rest between sets cause I'm tired :o
An alternative to bouldering is sport climbing. I find it offers a much better balance between the physical and mental parts.

Bouldering routes are only a couple of moves so the focus tends to be on raw power; climbing routes are longer and require more time planning and developing an optimal/working strategy, which can be more engaging and interesting.

> but you've got 3-5 minutes rest between sets

No you don't. You don't have to. You can have 90 seconds between sets if you want. Just stay consistent, gym session after gym session. Who has time for a 5 minute rest between sets? If you're doing warm-up sets you'll be in the gym for hours!

3-5 minutes is deal for strength training. So really it depends on your goals.
that's simply not true.
I picked up bouldering a few weeks ago and I love it! I wish I'd learned about it sooner. I've never experienced such a satisfying muscle ache before.
Seems really fun! Couple reservations I have. Do you have to wear a harness? Are people going to be telling me what to do? Isn’t it expensive?
1. No, not for bouldering, though it helps to have climbing shoes.

2. It's generally considered impolite to give advice on how to climb something, unless the person asks.

3. Most bouldering/climbing gyms have small workout areas in addition to the walls, and memberships that aren't a lot more expensive than a regular gym.

Thanks! I’ll check it out. So you’re saying I can just show up and boulder or are there lines? Or appointments?
You can just show up any time the gym is open. There are bouldering walls, just find a problem (what bouldering "routes" are called) that no one is on and go for it. Gym bouldering is usually pretty social, most people will be happy to answer any questions you have about anything, easier problems to try or techniques, etc.
There are programs with shorter rest times between sets, e.g. German Volume Training (60 to 90 secs). And you can do dumbell bench press without a spotter.

But I totally agree, more "practical" excercise like bouldering is much more fun.

If that rest time between sets is timed, it's a perfect opportunity to drill a second language in Anki, or Duolingo. Get your memory reps in between your lifting reps.
> 3-5 minutes rest between sets

That is a lot of rest time. Try to keep it between 30-45 secs