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by steveax 4170 days ago
Important to note that Robbins changed his mind and stopped chopping bolts 2 pitches into the 2nd ascent as (according to Lauria) "the quality of the aid climbing was much higher than he had ever expected of Harding or Caldwell and, of course, it was also taking us an awful long time to chop all those goddam bolts." [1]

The seminal article on "clean climbing" was authored by Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost and appeared in the 1972 Chouinard catalog [2]

[1] http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Royal_Robbins#Wall_of_Early_M...

[2] http://climbaz.com/chouinard72/ch_page2.html