The phrase isn't wrong, though. The vast majority of FPSes involve you playing a man, shooting other men. Sometimes it'll include a woman, but only if she's very, very scantily clad.
Reducing men to the physical expression of their sex is more sexist than anything else mentioned in the article. I will grant you "masculine," "macho," or even "puerile," but "phallic" is simply offensive.
