[bestest]

black on white, links not underlined, letter spacing and uppercase in links wrong, line-height / parapgraph spacing ratio wrong (this one's most important and making it all ugly IMO), two column index - that one's really cruel, uppercase / lowercase first letter mess all around.

the page definitely looks a lot better with CSS disabled.

[mzs]

Yup, I immediately did View -> Page Style -> No Style and was surprised to find links!