Interesting. Chrome doesn't have this option, but if you have stylebot or other extension it's easy to add a global CSS rule that adds it. I'll try it out for a while and see how it goes.
It also works on Firefox for Android through about:config, which is ostensibly unavailable, but not really: chrome://geckoview/content/config.xhtml - from there, you can also re-enable about:config by toggling general.aboutConfig.enable
It's visually noisy tbh, but I'd recommend to stick with it for a few days and see if you can get used to it. It took me about two days. So nice to see where the "buttons" are.