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> some Americanized, genericized conception of "the Mediterranean" that's indistinguishable from "the Middle East." The same happens with the food itself. I had a chat with a restaurateur in Switzerland, and he explained all the modifications he had to make in order to sell "Chinese" food. "They didn't have bean sprouts when I first came, and they will look like they are dying if there's any amount of spice in it." The famous example of this is Chicken Tikka Masala, which is a British take on Indian food. You can't open an "Indian" restaurant in the UK and not put it on the menu, just as you must have the step-ladder of spice with Indian sounding names (Korma, Madras, Vindaloo). IIRC similar to General Tso's Chicken when it comes to ordering Chinese in the US, gotta be on the menu. People simply come to expect certain things with certain foods, often disconnected with the the place that inspired it. When you open an ethnic restaurant, it's almost like joining a franchise. You aren't formally paying MacDonald's when you open a Chinese takeaway, but you do have to have things on the menu that people recognize, so the labels "Thai", "Ramen", "Japanese", etc function a bit like a franchise. |
as an indian i have to push back against this myth a bit - chicken tikka masala might have been invented in the UK, but it's a variant on similar indian dishes (butter chicken in particular) that not only would be right at home in many restaurants within india, but actually is! i don't even consider it fusion cuisine; it was invented by a south asian chef who happened to be living in the UK at the time, and the flavour profile is as "authentically" indian as any of the other standard punjabi-inspired north indian restaurant classics.