[NateEag]

No, it's acknowledging that for decades, the people doing mathematical modeling of waves dismissed lived experiences and reports of waves that didn't fit their models as "anecdotal", "folklore", and "insufficiently evidenced".

[fsckboy]

ok, but technically speaking, those repeated anecdotal reports wove a type of folklore, but were insufficiently evidenced to study.

[lcnPylGDnU4H9OF]

Are any of those things a reason for people who are modeling waves to disregard the experience that surfers have with waves?

[tekla]

Yes, because people are notoriously bad at reporting things properly or accurately or with any useful measurements.