[petsfed]

I suspect that, absent that information about the exact right way to grab a hold, or the exact way to put a foot on a hold, you'll be limited to beta suggestions, which is fine, I think. It'd be like having a group of other climbers nearby to suggest different beta, even if you don't have any friends.

So, in terms of solving complicated beta faster, I see real utility to this.

It is very interesting that since the AI climber is trained on actual climbers, it could, in principle, provide beta to climb consistent with your own style. If you train the bot exclusively on footage of yourself, it would return movement based on your style. If your style is finessy-all-backstep-all-the-time (aka The Edlinger), it can provide beta consistent with that. If your style is to square up and pull (otherwise known as The American), it can provide beta consistent with that instead.

[bmj]

(Long time climber here)

> It is very interesting that since the AI climber is trained on actual climbers, it could, in principle, provide beta to climb consistent with your own style. If you train the bot exclusively on footage of yourself, it would return movement based on your style. If your style is finessy-all-backstep-all-the-time (aka The Edlinger), it can provide beta consistent with that. If your style is to square up and pull (otherwise known as The American), it can provide beta consistent with that instead.

I would think this is actually a Bad Thing. It's very easy to get stuck trying to make a sequence fit your style of climbing. The better approach (especially for long term skill acquisition) is a willingness to learn new styles. That's to say that every sequence is only solvable via one particular style, but I think long term development is hindered if you approach every crux with the one thing you are good at.

> So, in terms of solving complicated beta faster, I see real utility to this.

I can agree with this. But, to the point that others have made, I do wonder what this and the availability of beta videos for many, many routes and blocs does to climbing skill overall. Perhaps I'm just a grumpy old man, but, particularly when bouldering, sorting out the beta should be part of the journey toward eventually sending. Last fall, I visited Hueco Tanks after a six year absence. I suppose I was a bit disappointed to see so many people watching YouTube beta videos of nearly every problem they tried.

[petsfed]

>I can agree with this. But, to the point that others have made, I do wonder what this and the availability of beta videos for many, many routes and blocs does to climbing skill overall.

That's a fair concern. That said, there are certain sequences that I'm physically incapable of doing without a dedicated multi-month program of stretching beforehand. Turns out falling on a thumbs-down jam is close enough to a shoulder dislocation that I maybe should've done some PT about it. The extreme is, obviously, the Edlinger vs. American example, but I think the middle ground actually addresses people's peculiar body geometry and/or range of motion. Alex Honnold's exact hip or elbow position might not be as meaningful for Ashima, even if they're on the exact same route.

Such nuances have made a difference in some cases (the one that springs to mind is Todd Skinner's observation that Steve Petro's hips sagged just a little mid-crux on Fiddler on the Roof, which, until corrected, had prevented Petro from nabbing the first ascent of one of the hardest cracks ever climbed to that point). Probably a net-bad for folks projecting Midnight Lightning or similar, but definitely useful for somebody looking to repeat Silence or whatever.

[smandava]

Correct