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by humbleferret 797 days ago
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life — William Finnegan — (2015)
1 comments
gnatman 797 days ago
Fantastic book. After I finished it, I was thinking- OK, how can I now best devote the rest of my life to surfing?
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humbleferret 796 days ago
It really is.

My takeaways after reading it were not to surf, but rather, the importance of uncertainty, taking risks and how transformative the power of obsession really is.

link