[toyg]

Città della Moda was the turning point.

I lived in Isola for a year around 2001 (piazza Minniti), and the direction of travel was already well-understood. Even the centro sociale squatters knew they were fighting a lost cause. I was back a couple of years ago and it's largely unrecognisable, with art galleries and real-estate agencies in place of cheap bakeries and northafrican takeaways. I got lost, and felt so depressed that I've never been back since.