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by brutusborn 1094 days ago
This rings true to me. I improved my surfing most at a point in my life where drowning didn’t really worry me. Not because it was less likely, but because I was at a point where I didn’t care much if I died.

It meant I dropped in on waves well beyond my skill level. I had lots of near misses but learnt heaps from the ones I caught.

I’m thankful I no longer feel that way, I want to stick around for those around me. Now I’m content on smaller waves and take a lot less risks in all aspects of life.
2 comments
applied_heat 1094 days ago
Curious what wave you are riding where drowning was a potential outcome in your mind? I’ve been stuck on the outside too scared to catch a monster in, but drowning never crossed my mind just getting the beat down and getting washed in or sucked back out and Potentially having to paddle some miles to a place that would be easier to get in. Dark with no moon would be unwelcome in that situation.
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defrost 1094 days ago
Many of our local offshore breaks in Western Australia have drowning as a potential outcome as a result of being beaten unconscious or washed under reef ledges.

It's rare but it happens at more or less the same frequency as fatal shark attacks - not often, but memorable.

eg: The Right

https://youtu.be/xjHaFOGBPzk?t=326

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applied_heat 1094 days ago
Yep that is a “serious” wave, thanks for sharing
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brutusborn 1094 days ago
As the other commenter noted, the waves where I was really afraid had some combination of shallow reefs or sandbars and strong currents. I’ve had a couple friends break their necks/backs at these places, but on milder days where it’s easy to get rescued and there are lots of people around. When I was in my darkest times I wouldn’t hesitate to paddle out by myself at these spots and take off too early/too late and hope for the best.

Honestly I never rode anything too gnarly, but I definitely was too much of a kook for some of them. Maybe I was overestimating the danger and it was beneficial overall?

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iJohnDoe 1094 days ago
Based on my limited knowledge, many of the greats went through the same thing you did.

Thanks for putting things in perspective.

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