[iudqnolq]

if I control-f for "theme" the first hit is four screenfulls down (phone) and it's a reference in the middle of a long block of text that implies they have themes.

The first prominent mention of themes is a heading six screenfulls down that mocks you for not changing it. It doesn't tell you how to change it.

This site is an explosion of emphasis. They can use massive size and gradients and flashy colors to emphasize their mockery of me. If they choose not to use the same for their theme switcher link I think it's fair to infer they don't want to emphasize it.