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by matthewwolfe 1270 days ago
It sounds like if your goal is V5-6, you better be bumping up that 5.11 sport climb goal! Certainly at that bouldering level 5.12 is in your future in no time.

In terms of training plan, I’m generally very loose. I’m definitely blessed to be very lightweight naturally, and I think I’ve developed some pretty strong fingers over time. That combination lends itself to crimps which is definitely my preferred style.

Board climbing like on a moonboard or kilter board are fantastic to build power, but be careful how frequently and how intensely you climb on those. My fingers tend to feel quite tweaky after a lot of board sessions.

Ultimately climbing is a game of time and consistency. Listen to your body and keep grinding at it, and you’ll definitely see progress!

Good luck to you as well!