| I've ridden (mostly in the 60cm sizes): - Steel Pogliaghi Track bike. 80's vintage, handbuilt. Thinwall standard diameter tubing. Probably the flexiest bike I've ridden, super easy to see BB and fork flex. - Handbuilt steel road, mid-90s, Columbus OS tubing I think. Kenesis bonded AL fork. Pretty harsh. The carbon forks of the time were much smoother. When I get it from storage (where it's been for a decade), I'm going to put a custom steel fork on it and ride it on sunny days and smooth pavement. - Handbuilt steel 26" road tandem. Late 90's. hand built steel unicrown fork. I _love_ this bike. It's running wide Rene Herse tires now. It is so planted on descents with bad pavement. My next single is going to try to replicate the feel of this bike in a single. (probably something like a Crust Lightning Bolt, if I can get one in the EU) - An Al Redline Cross bike (kinesis unicrown alu fork, which was an out and out noodle), and later with a Surly crosscheck fork (harsh, heavy). Very comfy till I killed the fork. Sadly, there's a fatigue crack at the bottom bracket. - An over stiff Al gravel bike (PlanetX Full Monty) w/ carbon fork, mildly redeemed by 650cx48 RH tires. It's so stiff that standing really isn't encouraged, the bike just feels dead. - Inexpensive Carbon road bike (PlanetX pro carbon) with carbon fork. Nice enough for the 6k miles I used it, but I'm done with 25c tires and no space for fenders. It's no faster than the gravel bike, despite being 4 kilos lighter. - Mid 90's Cannondale 3.0 frame. Stiff. I greatly preferred the Steel one that replaced it. My experience would say -- The forks really matter. The lighter unicrown forks are so much better than the super stiff ones. Wide, supple tires matter too. They're a good 7+% faster on the tandem, and probably the only reason I like riding the AL Gravel bike. |
All your testing & experimenting & getting to sample the goods sounds absolutely fun though.