[Brajeshwar]

I got the gist of the article with a quick speed-read. I have kinda used this unknowingly for a very long time. I have also helped a lot of people make buying decisions, especially when they find the upfront cost high.

My view is -- start from the cost of your use and buy it even if it is on the costlier side upfront. This is also akin to buying smaller number but of high quality item so they last longer and thus the life-time cost to usage is way beneficial than buying cheap that you need to repeat frequently.

Breaking down the cost down to the number of hours use per day, and thus if a Laptop lasts 3+ years, how much is the actual cost for each hour. Now, will it "spark joy" buying a better but costlier Laptop that will last years.

[XorNot]

Same for me: cost per use is helpful to get you thinking about total cost of ownership and product lifetimes.

It's a really good way to evaluate how much you should pay for the second purchase of a tool - also whether the price is worth the warranty.

My Bosch laser Level for example cost $150 more then the alternative, but came with a 6 year as opposed to 1 year warranty. At a total price of $600, I was buying it at $100 a year guaranteed availability. Whereas the cheaper option actually cost me $450 for only 1 guaranteed year of service.

[number6]

And for tools: If you buy the inferior one and then break it or decide to get the upgrade, your cost will be $450 + $600. You will not overpay $150 but $450. Also better tools tend to give you better outcomes.

[yourusername]

With tools you can go both ways. Good tools give you better results, last longer and feel better to use. On the other hand they often cost 4x what a cheap tool would cost that you wouldn't wear out as a DIY'er. A no name hammerdrill is €50 and a boschhammer €200. Most homeowners won't wear out the no name drill drilling a few dozens holes in concrete. If you do wear it out your final costs is only 25% higher than if you went for the pro tool to start.