The way I handle this is to run unbound on a server in the public cloud and then tunnel over TLS from my local unbound to the cloud instance. My local clients query a PiHole, which forwards to unbound on localhost:15353, which forwards everything over TLS to the fully recursive instance of unbound in the cloud, which uses root.hints.
How is the latency for such a setup? And how is the general browsing experience with said latency (I realize it also depends on which sites you frequently access)? I see some cloud providers/CDNs using a caching TTL as low as five minutes.
As you can see most of queries are completed in a way below 500ms. Adding another 20-40ms on top that doesn't change anything, because caching is a thing and with Unbound you can even ask to actually refresh the expiring records, so you would be served a fresh one from the cache every time, though I never bothered with it, it works fine even without it.
In addition to the root hints, you should also download the DNSSEC anchor key (available on the same site as the root hints). That will let you detect manipulations of records that are DNSSEC-signed.
Otherwise, you could spin up your recursive resolver on your cloud, VPS, or other hosting provider of choice, and then use that.
Right, DNSSEC will solve the "manipulate" problem, but it won't solve the "see" problem. But whether that's a concern is up to you. You could run your resolver on a VPS and speak DoT / DoH to that, which shifts the leak from your ISP to your VPS provider.
It doesn't solve the "manipulate" problem we're talking about here, either: nothing about DNSSEC prevents a DNS server (or middlebox) from denying results to a disfavored domain; it only (situationally) prevents them from redirecting it somewhere else. (And, of course, it only works if you're running your own recursive server; it does nothing whatsoever in the 8.8.8.8-type use case).
In theory if you got a resolver which could disable UDP queries, it would then default to TCP, and the ISP couldn't manipulate those. Don't know if any resolver supports disabling UDP though.
Unbound as a client will fall back to TCP automatically if the UDP response is too big. I'm uncertain if there is widespread support for TCP servers though.