I switched to goat counter recently and I’m happy with it. It’s not exactly an open source alternative to Google Analytics, because it’s more privacy oriented. If you want to track and profile your audience, it’s probably not what you want. I just want to get traffic numbers by page, though, so it’s perfect. They even support a hit counter pixel instead of adding a script tag if you want even more minimal, privacy-friendly stats.
Huh, the UI seems refreshingly lightweight and boring! Feels very much like the first time i saw Kanboard and was surprised at how minimalistic and snappy it felt in comparison to something like Jira: https://kanboard.org/
(well, most software probably feels more snappy than Jira, but Kanboard was also amazing)