Hacker News new | ask | show | jobs
by buro9 1666 days ago
I like it and immediately see a secondary use-case... the purchase of cameras and lenses for home broadcast studios and the upper end of vloggers and video conferencing.

Meaning... OK, so you're going with a Sony and you want a prime lens and you'll be x distance from the camera and want to be frame with head and shoulders... which prime lens is the one you should choose?

For a single camera + lens you'd probably experiment and a shop can rent you variations. But as soon as you're into the "I'm setting up a home studio and need several cameras" then you'd want to spend less time experimenting and get closer to the final configuration on the first pass, i.e. to use a tool to help get it right first time.

2 comments

Aside from this being a really simple calculation for which there are lots of online calculators and articles...there is no reason to buy a prime lens for streaming.

Modern kit zoom lenses are more than sufficient for even raw 1080p...and by the time your stream has been compressed twice (the first time likely by a hardware encoder on your video card, which is not exactly stellar encoding quality in the first place), there is exactly zero point to the very minute difference in quality, particularly since in a studio you can provide enough light that the lens can be stopped down to its ideal aperture.

If the goal is "head and shoulders shot", you probably want an 85mm (35-mm-equivalent) focal length, or thereabouts. 85mm is the classic portraiture focal length for 35mm format, because it yields a very natural look. 50mm might be more conducive to smaller spaces, however.

If by "Sony" you mean one of the a7 series mirrorless cameras...unless you're planning on streaming in candle-light conditions, that's also a massive waste of money. Any micro four thirds camera made in the last ten years will output gorgeous video quality for streaming even if you don't go to great lengths lighting-wise.

It depends on your camera's low light sensitivity and how much noise you can tolerate. A cheap prime lens will let in an order of magnitude more light than a cheap kit lens. And some folks want that creamy bokeh effect behind them.
Solution: start Blender, model the space with rough blocks, place the camera set up sensor size and focal length and go.
I was so happy when Blender added real-world camera matching, such a nice feature. You can control:

* Focal length / FOV in terms of e.g. 35mm lens focal lengths

* Focal distance

* F-stop (amount of blurring, matching real cameras)

* Number of actual shutter blades, rotation of them, etc. for matching bokeh effects of real cameras

https://docs.blender.org/manual/en/latest/render/cameras.htm...