[bb101]

The servers come across more as dining consultants or even storytellers.

I have a feeling this may be a feature of American fine dining. In Michelin-starred restaurants in the UK and France, I've found the service to be very discreet but immediately present when you need it. Certainly no introducing of names, or unrequested stories.

An amusing example was a lunch at Apicius in Paris, where we were offered an aperitif on the terrace. Having enjoyed our tipple, we then waited for someone to come and seat us. An hour later, a curious staff member stuck their head outside and asked whether we are ready to dine. I don't think it occurred to them to usher us around and we were free to time everything to our leisure. Moreover, on our next visit the same maitre d' remembered our preferred drinks and suggested talking to the chef to reconfigure the tasting menu with dishes we didn't have previously -- with two years between the visits.