There are a few advantages: the beds are raised do you don't have to bend over as far to tend them. The beds make it obvious where the place to walk is. The beds mean instead of rows of plants you have a contained solid mess which in turn means more plants per area (this is good for some plants, bad for others). Tilling is bad for soil and should be avoided whenever possible, the beds make it easier to not disturb the soil in ways that need tilling to fix. The beds allow you to have the type of soil best for the type of plant you are trying to grow - fertilizer doesn't change soil types.
Nothing magical about it, there are some advantages to raised beds, but other than the ergonomics everything can be done in any other type of garden if you try.
Because it destories the root structure built up in the ground over the years. Those roots then break down quickly, and in turn the whole microbe profile is different. Sometimes tilling is still the best thing to do, but it isn't a good thing and should be avoided.
On a different note, tilling also costs large amounts of energy. The less tilling your do, the less CO2 you are putting into the atmosphere (even if you do the tilling by hand with a shovel you are still emitting more CO2 than if you just sat in your easy-chair)
>Because it destories the root structure built up in the ground over the years. Those roots then break down quickly, and in turn the whole microbe profile is different. Sometimes tilling is still the best thing to do, but it isn't a good thing and should be avoided.
Does this still apply when talking about farming? I just started growing food this year, but once I've harvested the first crop and am planting the second crop of the season, the roots in the ground are surely going to break down quickly in any case, because I've harvested all of their tops, no?
>even if you do the tilling by hand with a shovel you are still emitting more CO2 than if you just sat in your easy-chair
I'm sorry, what? By that logic I should also never exercise.
> Does this still apply when talking about farming?
I think many farmers have moved towards using various types of something called “cover crops” rather than tilling. These cover crops have different impacts depending on which are used: some have incredibly prolific rooting systems that dig deep and break up the soil on their own; some pull nutrients from deep in the soil and grow massive green above ground so farmers let these grow to pre-seed levels and then plow it over, and leave it so it decomposes and re-releases those same nutrients to the surface, and also draws all the micro biome critters in which then fertilize the soil even more; some plants fix nitrogen levels and some bloom various types of flowers which pull in pollinators. Some do a premise mix of multiple types of cover crops.
I think tilling is still done sometimes but it’s only for certain situations but is avoided most of the time these days.
I just got into gardening a few years ago, so I’m still learning most of this as I go along, but from what i’ve read, tilling is phased out except for certain situations.
I can say with absolute certainty that by my third year of working on soil, my gardens soil absolutely does not need tilling at all, it’s fluffy and soft for at least two feet down with plenty of life in there. But much of the surrounding area is pretty clay tough. Honestly it was super easy, just needed like a season of building the soil properly.
Another Ive noticed is, many of our home/hobby gardening techniques which our parents generation adopted were really only useful for enormous factory level farms and were actually not good for small or home gardens. These two situations need entirely different things but marketing and such over the years really steered that generation into doing a lot of the wrong things.
I don’t know your situation, tilling may be the best option for you, but it also may be to just dump a bunch of compost on top, let it settle, then plant some rooting cover crops and let it do it’s thing for a couple months. The latter may be much much healthier for your soil.
I guess it depends on a plant, but it's not only about roots. Top layer of soil has highest concentration of organic matter and it builds up over time when plants and possibly animal excrements decompose. By tiling you kill fertility a bit, that's why most farms have to use fertilizers.
I guess it depends on a plant, but it's not only about roots. Top layer of soil has highest concentration of organic matter and it builds up over time when plants and possibly animal excrements decompose. By tiling you kill fertility a bit, that's why most farms have to use fertilisers.
It applies to farming in general. You really need to consult an agronomist for better answers (which can be very specific/different depending on which part of a field you are asking about )
I was hoping you would notice the exercise connection. I don't have answers to that, just an interesting consideration.
It disrupts the fungal life and dries it out, while also increasing erosion and weed pressure. It’s not that you can’t ever till, but it’s generally to be avoided.
In the case of clay, deep mulch will do wonders, and the earthworms will gently improve the soil over time.
I'm not sure if you know, but is there a way to promote earthworms in my soil? It's pretty compacted after the build and apparently they don't like that, so I'm trying to aerate and let my grass grow longer to break up what it can before I trim and let the roots die. For the garden I'm also planning on planting plants with deep roots, like sunflowers, to improve the soil.
Yes. As someone growing and raising between 60 and 100% (depending on year) of my family's food on a run-through clay and hardpan soil (150 years of cotton and tobacco did it), I can definitely say that you can turn compacted and dead clay around. Like the parent said - deep mulch is one way. In my case, leaves, grass clippings, forest duff, soiled animal bedding, etc. Really anything organic. You effectively want to "build" the topsoil, which will over time (4-7 years depending on what you're starting with) create enough organic matter to entice insects, earthworms, fungal growth (critical to soil health), voles and moles. All of these creatures will aerate the soil for you. No work required. If you want to do a test, throw a tarp down (or some other large covering) over an area, and check back on it in a week or two. You should have some moles already going to work on aerating your soil, and in turn, you should see at least some earthworm activity.
Also, don't forget the weeds. Almost all of the plants humans label as weeds, have very deep sub-soil penetrating roots (most are also more nutritious than the stuff we've bred for us or other animals to eat). If you want to rebuild your soil, let the weeds grow and then either use them for compost which you'll later top-dress your soil with, or just chop them and leave them be for the cover crop effect, or work them in slightly, up to you.
> If you want to rebuild your soil, let the weeds grow and then either use them for compost which you'll later top-dress your soil with, or just chop them and leave them be for the cover crop effect, or work them in slightly, up to you.
This has been my primary approach. Letting the grass and "weeds" grow relatively tall then trimming them down every month or so, letting the clippings rest where they are more or less.
Where do you live? Earthworms are not native everywhere and they can be a harmful invasive species if introduced to the wrong place.
If you have a new house, developments are horible, just enough soil to grow grass. You might be stuck buying good compost and soil and tilling that in deep, then letting grass grow for a few years before trying anything more.
Seems to be the case I'll have to play the long game. They bring in this disgusting but shapeable soil to surround the foundation out here in central Texas. I remember growing up finding earthworms and fishing all the time, so they should be native.
Texas checking in -- the dirt in my backyard is full of clay and totally unsuitable for growing anything other than grass and weeds. Many places are like this.
That makes sense, and maybe I'm sweeping aside many places similar without thinking about them. In the Midwest I've always had good luck in the ground.
Finally got a home and am finding the same thing here in central Texas. At least with the crap soil the builders use to form the land around the foundation. My plan is to attempt to grow more deep rooted plants so their roots can break up the soil and die off when I trim them. Then aeration and topsoil composting. Still a work in progress so I have no idea if it'll work.
The clay soil usually has a low organic matter content. So bringing mulch, grass clippings etc. does improve several key factors for the plants to thrive. The problem with putting a layer of rotting grass/weeds on the top is that at least in some locations it will make a perfect slug/snail farm. So I prefer to burry it in shallow pits/trenches.
Also probably any preferably dense plant cover protects the top layer from being backed by the sun and becoming brick-like.
Nothing magical about it, there are some advantages to raised beds, but other than the ergonomics everything can be done in any other type of garden if you try.