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by johtela 2031 days ago
Rather than spending a lot of time building a router table, I recommend making a Samurai Carpenter's router jig [1] which is far simpler to make, and more useful in most woodworking joinery tasks. I spent many evenings making a nice router table, and I've used it maybe a dozen times. The Samurai jig, on the other hand, I use all the time. Mostly cutting half lap joints in two-by material, but also for notching and general routing. It is much easier to use a router when you can the bit cutting. With a router table you have to rely on the fence for making accurate cuts. (A good fence is a mandatory accessory for a functional router table)

[1]: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DV9Cb_-Axos

8 comments

I have a router table and am finding with a small hobby style shop that setup time moving it around (cart with lockable wheels), attaching dust collection, etc. is cumbersome. I bought a battery powered trim router and end up using that. I think I'll give this a try for bigger jobs.

I don't have a planer and this looks like it could also be used to flatten boards that are 10 inch and smaller width by just setting the router depth to knock off a small amount. It would take some labor to pass over an entire board.

Router tables, however, are a serious joy to use. I prefer the table. To each his own.
Though I've never done any fancy or ambitious woodworking, I made a similar jig for my cheap Sears router. I'm not a safety expert, but it seems an advantage of this jig is that your hands are always on the opposite side of it from the blade.

The only open blade tool in my shop is a table saw, and that thing makes me nervous enough.

You need to construct your fence and feather boards in a way that the bit is always covered and feed in from one end using push sticks. In most cases your hand should not be over the table at all. The main risk that can result in getting too close to the blade is a kickback pulling your hands in to the blade. Don't put your hands on that side. Understanding feed direction is critical to router safety. Don't feed work between the bit and the fence, have the bit half in the fence and spinning towards the work. I knew a guy who lost three fingers to a router because it wasn't in a table when it should have been.

Much of that is true of a table saw too. Stay back, use a pushstick, or make a jig. I cringe when I see Adam Savage using a saw with his fingers by the blade, there is no need. When I was an apprentice I would get yelled at for that.

The real risk with a router used properly is to your ears, your lungs, your eyes.

Thanks for those pointers. Fortunately, or unfortunately, I have greatly slowed down my woodworking operation. The table saw mainly serves as a horizontal surface. But in addition to what you mention, I've always followed some extra rules: First, I don't design things that need dangerous saw cuts in the first place. Second, my fingers stay away from the blade because I don't cut anything that small. This produces more scrap. Third, I plan and visualize the entire cut before I turn on the saw, and if it's not going according to plan, I just shut it down.
Seems like with small wheels or furniture glides you could repurpose this as a decent planing jig, like this one: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YMWALHrfLT0
Here's an alternate version of this jig that looks like some good enhancements. https://youtu.be/2IMDZ2vs8NM
Thanks for that pointer, I've got to take a look at that. I love some of his work, but I don't follow him normally.
Thanks - the Samurai Router looks like the perfect solution for me: I just can't find the space for a router table in my shop.
Neither did I, so I just built a small box (maybe 1.5' x 2') with a couple small drawers for bits and all, adjustable fence, and a hinged top for easy adjustments. Fits underneath my bench. The Samurai's jig looks like a very useful addition to the shop, though, and it's now on my TODO list.
WOW! Thanks for sharing this link. The Samurai jig is insanely useful, and the Samurai Woodworker is delightfully insane.