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by brudgers
2354 days ago
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I don't surf. I know people who do. I've known them for the 35+ years they have been. I think getting it ultimately means living next to a place to surf. All of those people have arranged some period of their lives around surfing by living where surfing before and after work was an option. Some still do. Living at the beach seems part of the price of getting good at surfing. |
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Paraphrasing Steve McQueen, more like, where work in between surfing was an option.