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by pisteoff
2349 days ago
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Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan A beautiful book about waves, love, writing, and living a good life. As a surfer, skier, mountain biker, and overall risk taker, this book affected me in the same way "Walden Pond" or "Pilgrim at Tinker Creek" affects some people. It is the most impactful book I've read in the past 10 years. Probably not for everyone, but for those of a certain ilk it is stunning. |
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