All the "big" Perl codebases I've worked with were as readable as I'd have expected any "big" codebase to be, if not better. What was your experience like?
I don't find it so. I do both Perl and Python at work: the Perl code is almost always clearer to read IMHO. I know some people find curly brackets and sigils distracting, but to me they make code less ambiguous.