| Yes, there are drawbacks. I'd say multiple pairs of gloves is overkill, plain medical latex ones do just fine for me. Just don't mix or apply it with a finger. Open time of modern ones is acceptable, Many times I found myself waiting for it to get more sticky than otherwise. And heat is of no concern for joints. For point 8 I'm not sure what are you talking about. It's great for thin-layer joints, that's where it actually excels. Never had any problems with UV, but maybe because it was always painted over (and what's the problem with painting? sand it a bit, that's taken as granted as even epoxy itself won't stick to unsanded epoxy) Besides, knowing you won't be able to get it off once it gets on something trains concentration and fine motor control :) As for $ well, it costs a bit more, and time spent on weighing and mixing is well over any cost difference in raw materials. Still in the end you get a joint that'll be the last thing that fails. |
Open time is not an issue if you are mixing enough for a chair leg, but if you were mixing enough to glue a large lamination it kind of sucks when it smokes in the pot and then goes instantly hard or melts your glue pot[3]. Equally if you were trying to glue up a set of stairs, for instance, you would need a helper just to mix the glue fast enough.
point 8. It shows a glue line in thin laminations [1]. I struggle to get where you are saying it 'excels' at thin joints, in fact the main selling point with epoxy is that it is the only wood glue that is strong across a gap. That is where it excels, loose joints and fillets.
> and what's the problem with painting?
It is called amine blushing.Sanding won't do, it has to be washed off [2]
> Besides, knowing you won't be able to get it off once it gets on something trains concentration and fine motor control :)
Buying new rollers, brushes, tubs for every single joint gets old really quickly if you are a pro user. Again fine if you are gluing a chair leg, a pita if you are glueing large joints.
> it costs a bit more,
It costs a lot more! Titebond in bulk is £10 a litre. West system large packs are nearly £50 a kilo!
> Still in the end you get a joint that'll be the last thing that fails.
Is that always a good thing? Wood moves around a lot and sometimes it can crack a glue line that can just be reglued. With epoxy your wood will split instead.
Epoxy has some amazing qualities, gap filling and water resistance in particular. In a hobby shop it might be worth the hassle, in a pro-shop almost never.
[0]:http://www.fram.nl/workshop/controlled_vacuum_infusion/aller...
[1]:http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Glue_Choices_for_Tight...
[2]:https://www.epoxycraft.com/amine-blush-what-you-need-to-know...
[3]:https://www.epoxyworks.com/index.php/big-batch-mixing-method...