I have major gripes with it too and don't use it unless a project enforces it.
The main ones that get me are the whitespace (4 characters) and restrictive line length (79 characters) rules. They don't work well together, and also don't work well with python's significant whitespace (can't easily break up a line), namespaces, generator expressions, and type hints. All for a subjective formatting decision.
I'll also often see people trying to cram as much as they can into 79 characters with one letter variable names and such while calling that elegant code because it's a "one-liner."
Yes, the 79 character limit gets in my nerves. Unless you're using a machine built in the 70s or 80s, this limit is complete BS
To be honest it says right at the beginning of PEP-8 that "A Foolish Consistency is the Hobgoblin of Little Minds" but it seems little minds are the norm (and usage of 'pep8' package to make developers do what a computer could do faster and better)