[miles]

If you've got a reasonably fast connection and machine, the "load basic HTML (for slow connections)" link at bottom right disappears almost instantly when loading the Gmail web interface.

You can use this direct link to the basic HTML version:

http://mail.google.com/mail/h/

but Google's not quite done with you yet, presenting this message along with two buttons:

Do you really want to use HTML Gmail?

You’re about to use a version of Gmail designed for slower connections and legacy browsers. To get all of Gmail’s features, including inbox categories, images, and quick actions, please use the latest version of Gmail (recommended).

Take me to latest Gmail | I'd like to use HTML Gmail

Selecting the latter button allows you to enjoy an interface from a simpler time.

[codedokode]

Also, HTML version works even with JS disabled.