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by lcc
2829 days ago
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I found the learning curve really steep (even coming from a skateboard/snowboard background, and being a reasonably good swimmer). A lot of it is learning how to read the waves, which is frustrating at first. I've been at it for about a year now and am only just starting to feel things click. But even when I wasn't catching any waves, I loved the feeling of being in the water, feeling the power of the waves, and just enjoying the views of sunsets and the coast. Definitely get an instructor for your first few attempts. They'll be able to push you and help you catch whitewater waves which will give you an idea if you actually enjoy this thing. Then if you want to be able to actually surf, I highly recommend spending at least 1, preferably 2 weeks at a surf camp with good instructors. A lot of surf camps just hire 18 year old Australian kids or whatever who just want to travel and surf, and while they're great surfers they aren't great instructors. I went to School of the World in Costa Rica and the instructors there are permanent, this is their career, they care about it and they're good at it. They had me catching my first green waves very consistently with help, and progressing from a 9' board to a 6'7 board. After a week and a half there, I was able to go back home and actually catch green waves (inconsistently) on my own for the first time, and build my skills to consistently catching those waves. Getting feedback and being in the water every day helps you improve exponentially. |
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