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by thx11389793
2826 days ago
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I went surfing with a friend a couple years ago. I made an error while donning the wetsuit and ended up irretrievably wedging my head into the sleeve. Had to have my friend unwedge me. Paddling takes a LOT of effort, and you do a lot of it. Catching a wave is about timing, and balance, in that order. I managed to do it exactly once in the couple hours we were out. I'd do it again. :) |
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