[ggg9990]

I built the high level system but out of stock components from the usual suspects. I used off the shelf components though. Standard High CRI LED strips, stock power supplies, 0-10v dimmers, and a Raspberry Pi in charge. Most of the hardware and heat sink from superbrightleds.

[chillacy]

LED dimmers introduce another problem in some people, which is the high frequency strobing, which can cause headaches and eyestrain.

[amluto]

A good LED dimmer won’t do this. There’s even a standard now: IEEE 1789. It’s possible, albeit hard, to find IEEE 1789-compliant dimmers.

[ksec]

I was about to back to Halogen Lamp, and I was hoping there are improvement to Halogen Lamp then anything else.

Are there any Consumer LED Products, that offer High CRI 95+, may be with less UV since that should be less indoor, Long Life, Little degradation on CRI and Lighting over time, and more importantly NO / Zero flicking?

I have been asking and thinking, assuming all our electricity is green and cheap, why would I want a LED over Halogen Lamp? All the problem I have, which I absolutely hate and drive me crazy are colour inaccuracy and flickering. Both of which are non existent to Halogen Lamp.

[amluto]

> All the problem I have, which I absolutely hate and drive me crazy are colour inaccuracy and flickering. Both of which are non existent to Halogen Lamp.

Not really true. The fancier halogen lamps (e.g. MR16s with reflectors that pass IR) have CRI below 100. Halogen lamps do buzz, especially when connected to a dimmer. (Many halogen lamps are 12V, too, and most of the transformers also buzz.) And they all flicker — the power delivered to the filament is roughly sinusoidal at 120Hz, and the thermal mass is low enough that there is a good amount of modulation in the light output. IIRC it’s about 30%. It just so happens that the residual 120Hz modulation is low enough that it doesn’t affect most people.

A crappy LED driver modulates much deeper than 30% at 120Hz and might even modulate at 60Hz. A good LED driver doesn’t.