It's actually simpler than that now days, you simple set up a server with a headless web browser on it and route all old-browser and crawlers to that box. They get the same functionality but with-in a page post model. There are a few architectural adherence but for the most part it works pretty well.
I always wondered about this, how does Google prevent this type of behavior? Like serving specific content to search engines and show other content to users... do they check using camouflaged bots?
Actually the article describes specifically how to do this while avoiding SEO (and no-JS) problems.
As with AJAX, the typical philosophy is to design for elegant degradation -- plan the site, then build it to work without JS, then add in the "fancy" stuff.
That being said, if you follow google's rules as specified here - http://code.google.com/web/ajaxcrawling/docs/getting-started... , it will crawl your ajax pages, no problem.
Finally, please be a little civil. Thanks.