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by stereosky 3229 days ago
Couldn't agree more, from one foamie homie to another! I often go foam when I take coaching, just so I can be sure the board is under my control when working on something new. One of my favourite sessions was one where clean 3-4ft waves just kept rolling in out back (a rarity here) and whilst everyone of us on epoxy/fibreglass got to surf, no one had wave counts higher than a local shop owner on a 9-10ft board. If I could have taken a poll that day it was clear judging by everyone's faces who would have won the vote for happiest person in the water. That to me is what surfing is all about