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by zhte415 3533 days ago
Absolutely.

I'm not in Italy but in China. 'Lamian' or literally 'pulled noodles' are a staple dish for my own and colleagues lunches on most days. Staples in North China are largely wheat or corn based.

Dough is usually pre-kneaded to the consistency the chef prefers. 'Cut' is then done by pulling, doubling-up, re-pulling, etc, until reaching the right thickness that the stand desires.

The article mentions su filindeu as being thin and stretched, with drying into a web-like layered structure. This is certainly going to be interesting and a bit different.

But this process of pulling and cutting varies chef-by-chef. Arguments break out a lunch between colleagues who prefer 'thin' noodles vs 'regular' vs 'think'. Going to a single place and ordering a preference just doesn't work. 'thin' where a chef makes the dough thick may be thin in diameter, but not in mouth texture. 'thick' (or wide and thick) in a restaurant that provides regular or thinly kneaded dough just doesn't feel satisfyingly chewy in a restaurant that doesn't routinely serve a thicker dough - not enough chew.

And then there's the flour used.

The difference that technique brings is huge. Liken it to bread: flour with a consistent level of ¬14-15g of protein (similar to flour used for pasta, though usually different type) per 100g can result in remarkably different breads depending on kneading, resting, forming, and remarkably more techniques.

3 comments

Out of curiosity, are you using ¬ to represent "approximately" in place of the ~ (tilde) symbol? The only place I've ever encountered the ¬ symbol is in formal logic, where it represents [not].
Typo.

US keyboard in UK mode, pressing the key marked ~ resulted in ¬.

I love lamian. It's hard to find in the US (especially here in Minnesota) but there's one Szechuan place near that does a really nice dish with that type of noodles in chili vinegar sauce with crushed peanuts.
I was curious and went to look up lamian on Wikipedia. Found a link on the page for chow mein, which I followed out of curiosity. It was fascinating to see the way Minnesota chow mein was singled out as particularly bad. Unfortunately in my experience it's absolutely true. That was my introduction to Chinese food as a kid, so sometimes I'll have a little for nostalgia, but in the end it disappoints. I think if I had some that was well prepared I would be in heaven, as in the movie Ratatouille.
You can see here how difficult it is to make.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaeyFyQemDw

Basically, Ramsay (not really a slouch at cooking) is trying to make lamain and he's getting a huge bitching out by the existing chef who tell him it's going to take him ten years to get good at it.

I think this video is a good counterpoint to when Ramsay is outclassed, knows it, and is respectful.

I'm in MN too. What is the restaurant called?
I'd guess Little Szechuan[1]. Note that the original University Ave location in St Paul is now hot pot only.

1: http://littleszechuan.com

Actually, the Tea House nearby. I _think_ it's lamian. At least it has that super chewy texture. I have no idea if they're fresh made or not, though. Still, about as good as you're going to get in the area, I think.
Where, please. Really good Chinese in MN is hard to find.
There are a few good places in the Twin Cities area. The ones my wife (from Taiwan) and I really like are Little Szechuan, The Tea House Restaurant, Evergreen (but don't order the American Chinese food, obviously), Grand Szechuan (great veg dumplings made in house), and the cafe in United Noodles.
I love Evergreen's three cup tofu and eggplant enough that I figured out how to make it at home now that I don't live three blocks away :-P
You're forgetting another way to process the noodles. Knife cut (刀削). That gives a completely different mouth feel and form factor.

That's my favorite kind of noodle, and it's hard to find in the states in general, as it takes a long time to get good at it and you generally don't batch make the noodles.