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by pen2l
3562 days ago
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1) Thank you for writing this! Some of the techniques you've outlined here, I have thought of so many times... but deemed them too dangerous. Your post has given me the courage to try some of this out on my own. To begin with, I will print some artsy statue with ... uhm, a low infill (like say, 10%?) and routinely fill it with some heavy sand or viscous liquid. I think it'll work well... it'll save me material, but on the other hand it makes 3d printing very hands on huh! I suppose I should pause and fill every other 30 minutes or so. 2) > this approach is ultra powerful, and it's the same thing you see on some of the high-end maker printers (like in the TAZ production docs that describe how to use strong/precise steel parts combined together with 3D printed parts). Sorry man, what do you mean here? Can you maybe please specifically link to what you are referring to here? |
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If you inspect most of the FDM (maker-style, RepRap, etc.) printers, you'll notice that they themselves are constructed of 3D printed parts. But the way they use the parts is a lot different than most end-users (a single purpose item that works stand-alone; like a statue, cup, wall hook, etc.).
Instead, the way the 3D printed parts on the printer are used (in general) is by combining the strengths/attributes of multiple materials. All fasteners are standard metal parts, with mating metal nuts (often embedded or even hot-inserted into the back of a printed part). Precision bushings are press-fit into printed parts to use along steel guide rails.
The TAZ assembly docs show a lot of that thinking, so I thought I'd link over to it in the write-up.
In short, it's the kind of thing that I'd love to see more of because it leverages the best properties of multiple materials instead of being all one or the other. :)