No, you're wrong. The meta tag is a problem. No matter how subjectively 'good' a design is, it should still not be up to the designer to decide to break a fundamental UX paradigm of my device, nor to decide what size of text I should be able to read.
Setting the viewport meta this way is practically the definition of an accessibility micro aggression.
I mean that if websites where more well designed users won't need to zoom at all most of the time. Not that they must not do it.
Pinch to zoom is a beautiful feature and part of the success of the early iPhone and iOS, and it was there because at the time there was no mobile web design at all.
The fact that so many users still go in panic mode today reveals how mobile web design is far from perfect.
That said, there'd be also legitimate design reasons to use the viewport metatag to disable the zoom. Good designers know the rules and know when they can break them. I don't believe in accessibility dogma.
Setting the viewport meta this way is practically the definition of an accessibility micro aggression.